Shudu Gram: Is fashion photography going virtual?
In the digital era, some say print is dead. Is fashion photography next?
In the early 1990s, a young, fresh-faced schoolgirl became the poster child for fashion, defining the decade’s style. The 14-year-old’s slender, edgy look enthralled fashion photographers like Owen Scarbiena, who cast her image onto the world’s stage.
She was Kate Moss.
The fashion photographers’ editorials set up her career as one of the world’s most famous supermodels.
But in 2020, fashion photography has changed. What’s next for an image-based industry in an era where images can be artificially produced?
The former fashion photographer uses 3D modeling software to create Shudu's campaigns. Video: Cameron-James Wilson
HELEN IFEAGWU
Undercover nerd.
Shudu Gram is fashion's first virtual supermodel. Photo: Cameron-James Wilson
Cameron-James Wilson is redefining the boundaries of fashion photography. Instead of shooting models, he’s created his own: Shudu Gram.
Since Shudu’s own fashion breakthrough in 2017, she’s covered Vogue Australia and collaborated with brands like Balmain and Ellesse.
“I think some aspects of photography have become toxic,” says Wilson. In pursuit of creative freedom, Wilson taught himself 3D avatar modelling and created Shudu.
But while he’s made a living creating Shudu’s campaigns, Wilson has received plenty of backlash.
Shudu was dubbed “a white man’s digital projection of real-life black womanhood” by The New Yorker. A Twitter storm erupted, with users chastising Wilson for his misappropriation of Shudu’s African image for profit.
London-based fashion photographer Lauren Marsh works for clients like Versace. She doesn’t see the future of fashion photography transformed by digital avatars.
“Because Wilson’s done it first,” she says, “he’s going to be ahead of the curve like the influencers were on Instagram in the beginning.”
So could we see a future where photography with real models will become obsolete?
Marsh doesn’t feel threatened. She says, “I think virtual models are quite different at the moment, so they’ll do fairly well. But something else will come and take over eventually.”
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Video: Helen Ifeagwu
Music: WaveBeatsMusic